10 Australian native plants that thrive in deep shade

Deep shade is one of the most challenging environments in any garden. Under dense tree canopies, beside south-facing fences or beneath wide building eaves, the combination of low light, root competition and dry soil can defeat most plants. But Australia flora has produced a remarkable suite of species that not only tolerate these conditions but can flourish in them.

This article presents ten Australian natives for deep-shade situations, drawing from across diverse climate zones. We include well-loved garden staples alongside several lesser-known species that deserve wider recognition. For each plant you'll find an at-a-glance fact box, practical planting guidance and maintenance tips.

Understanding shade in the Australian garden: True deep shade (under 2 hrs direct sun) is the most demanding site but dappled or part shade (2–4 hrs) opens up many more plant options. Soil beneath established trees is often dry and root-filled so raised beds or generous organic matter can transform success rates. Light levels also change seasonally; a spot that is deeply shaded in summer may receive more winter sun as deciduous canopy trees drop their leaves

Plant 01Soft Tree Fern (Dicksonia antarctica)

Cool temperate to warm temperate  ·  Victoria, Tasmania, NSW, SE Qld highlands

One of Australia's most iconic shade plants, the Soft Tree Fern is a living fossil that has grown in moist gullies and rainforest margins for millions of years. Its enormous, arching fronds reaching up to three metres in length create huge impact in a garden setting. The fibrous, water-retaining trunk slowly builds over decades, eventually reaching several metres in height.

Jungle Rebel from Brussels, Belgium, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

In the garden, Dicksonia antarctica performs best in moist, humus-rich soil with reliable humidity, making it ideal for southern and highland gardens. In drier areas, consistent watering during summer is essential.

Soft Tree Fern care tip: Water directly onto the trunk as well as the root zone with a hose. The fibrous trunk stores moisture and feeds the plant. Mulch deeply (10cm) to retain soil moisture and mimic the humus-rich rainforest floor. Never remove the growing crown (the central bud) as this will kill the plant. Established specimens can be transplanted with minimal root disturbance as the trunk itself acts as the main water reservoir during transit.

Plant 02Rainforest Lily (Johnsonia lupulina)

Tropical to subtropical  ·  North Queensland, coastal Queensland

The Rainforest Lily or Hop Lily, is a ground-dwelling perennial from the tropical rainforests of north Queensland, yet it remains almost entirely unknown in cultivation outside specialist native plant circles. It produces strap-like leaves and hop-like bracts from which small lilac flowers emerge, perfectly suited to a shaded tropical courtyard or fernery.

Kym Nicolson, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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For gardeners in tropical and subtropical zones, this species is a reliable, clumping foliage plant that thrives where little else will grow. It pairs beautifully with ferns and mosses in a shade garden scheme.

Growing Rainforest Lily: Source plants from a native nursery as this species is rarely stocked in mainstream garden centres. In subtropical gardens, grow in a pot and bring undercover if frost is forecast. It makes an ideal indoor fernery or sheltered balcony plant in indirect natural light. Increase humidity around the plant by grouping with other ferns or placing pots on a pebble tray with water.

Plant 03Native Violet (Viola hederacea)

Cool temperate to subtropical  ·  Eastern Australia, widespread

The Native Violet is perhaps Australia's most versatile and forgiving shade ground cover. It forms a dense, weed-suppressing mat of kidney-shaped leaves with small violet-and-white flowers for most of the year even in quite deep shade. It spreads readily by runners and will naturalise under trees, binding soil on slopes and softening hard edges beautifully.

This is a true workhorse plant that suits almost any cool to warm temperate garden in eastern Australia. It is especially effective beneath eucalypts where dry shade and root competition challenge most plants.

Using Native Violet as ground cover: Plant 30–40cm apart for rapid coverage; runners will fill gaps within one season. Mow or shear back hard in late winter to refresh the plant and encourage dense re-growth. It tolerates occasional foot traffic and can be used in-between stepping stones or pavers. Combine with taller shade plants like Dianella and Lomandra for a layered understorey.

Plant 04Davidson's Plum (Davidsonia jerseyana)

Subtropical to warm temperate  ·  NSW North Coast, South East Queensland

The Mullumbimby Plum is one of the most spectacular rainforest understorey trees in cultivation. A compact, multi-stemmed small tree rarely exceeding five metres, it produces dramatic leaves with prominent red midribs and clusters of deep burgundy-purple plums directly on the trunk and main branches. This phenomenon is known as cauliflory. The fruit is intensely flavoured and highly prized for jams, sauces and drinks.

Zaareo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

In the garden, this species excels as a structural shade plant in subtropical and warm temperate gardens, providing year-round foliage interest and a sensational fruiting display in late summer. It naturally inhabits the deeply shaded rainforest margins of the NSW Northern Rivers region.

Growing Davidson's Plum for fruit: Plant at least two specimens for reliable fruiting but single plants can self-pollinate. The fruit is very acidic and not palatable raw but is great in jams, sauces and cordials. Protect young plants from frost with hessian cloth or a temporary shelter in their first two winters. Feed with a slow-release native fertiliser low in phosphorus in spring to encourage fruiting.

Plant 05Tasman Flax Lily (Dianella tasmanica)

Cool temperate to warm temperate  ·  Victoria, Tasmania, NSW

Dianellas are a mainstay of the Australian native garden and the Tasman Flax Lily is the standout performer in deep shade. Its arching strappy leaves form clumps to around one metre and in spring it sends up tall, branching flower stems with small blue-violet flowers followed by striking, long-lasting glossy purple berries. The berries are an excellent food source for native birds.

This species is remarkably tough once established, handling not only dense shade but also dry periods, frost and competition from tree roots. It works beautifully as a mid-layer plant in a layered native garden design. Read more about layered planting design with Australian natives to maximise biodiversity in your garden.

Getting the best from Tasman Flax Lily: Divide large clumps in autumn with a hori hori knife and replant to fill gaps. The berries, while attractive to birds, are mildly toxic to humans so be mindful in gardens where children play.

Plant 06Climbing Lily (Tripladenia cunninghamii)

Subtropical to tropical  ·  North Queensland, coastal NSW

This slender, scrambling lily native to the rainforest margins of north Queensland and north-east NSW produces a cascade of narrow, bright green leaves and small, blue flowers over a long season. In its natural habitat it weaves through the deep shade of rainforest understoreys, clambering over logs and low shrubs. In the garden, it makes a wonderful pot plant for a shaded terrace or an unusual ground-level scrambler in a tropical shade garden.

Melburnian, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Its refined texture and long flowering period make it suitable for more cottage-style garden settings. It is very rarely available in nurseries so seek it out through specialist native plant societies or nurseries focused on rainforest species.

Growing Climbing Lily: It grows well in a hanging basket in a shaded position, where its scrambling habit becomes an attractive feature. Keep soil consistently moist but never waterlogged; excellent drainage is essential. This is a slow grower so patience is rewarded with a truly distinctive plant.

Plant 07Snow Grass (Poa sieberiana var. sieberiana)

Cool temperate to subalpine  ·  Victoria, NSW, Tasmania, ACT

The Silver Tussock or Snow Grass is one of the most widely distributed native grasses in south-east Australia and it is among the very few grasses that will persist and look attractive in quite shaded conditions. Its fine, soft foliage forms neat, arching tussocks with a pleasingly silvery-green tone, creating a naturalistic, meadow-like understorey beneath eucalypts and native shrubs.

Harry Rose from South West Rocks, Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

This is a key species in bushland restoration and plays an important role in providing habitat for small skinks, invertebrates and nesting birds. In the ornamental garden it brings movement and texture to shaded borders. For more on using native grasses in your garden, see our guide.

Managing Poa grasses in the garden: Cut back to 10–15cm in late winter to remove dead material and stimulate fresh growth. Avoid high-phosphorus fertilisers as this grass thrives in low-nutrient conditions. Mass planting of five to nine plants creates a naturalistic meadow effect even in quite dry, shaded spots. Allow seed heads to develop for late-season interest and to support seed-eating birds and small fauna.

Plant 08Crow's Ash (Flindersia australis)

Subtropical to tropical  ·  Queensland, northeastern NSW

Crow's Ash is an outstanding rainforest tree that earns its place in larger shade gardens across subtropical and tropical Australia. A medium to large rainforest canopy tree in the wild, in cultivation it is often slower-growing and more compact and can be managed as a structural mid-canopy tree. Its glossy foliage is beautiful year-round and it produces clusters of white flowers followed by distinctive star-shaped woody capsules.

Tatiana Gerus from Brisbane, Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Crow's Ash is significant culturally and ecologically. It is a timber tree of great historical importance in Queensland and its flowers attract native bees and insects. 

Planting Crow's Ash in the garden: Young plants tolerate and even prefer shade. The distinctive star-shaped seed capsules can be used in decorative arrangements. Allow a generous planting distance of at least five metres from structures; this is ultimately a large tree.

Plant 09Necklace Fern (Asplenium flabellifolium)

Cool temperate to subtropical  ·  Widespread eastern Australia, WA, SA

The Necklace Fern is best suited to dry shade and is a genuinely underused garden plant. This compact, delicate-looking fern produces long, arching fronds made up of fan-shaped pale green leaflets, giving a fine texture. Uniquely, fronds often produce a plantlet at their tip which roots on contact with the soil hence the common name Necklace Fern.

Poyt448, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Its tolerance of dry, rocky conditions makes it particularly useful for the challenging dry shade beneath dense canopy trees. It is excellent for rock gardens, low walls and contained planting pockets. 

Propagating the Necklace Fern: Take advantage of natural propagation by pegging frond tips to the soil and keeping them moist until the tip plantlet roots, then sever the frond and pot up the new plant. Plant in crevices between rocks or in the gaps in dry-stone walls for a naturalistic effect.

Plant 10Wonga Vine (Pandorea pandorana)

Subtropical to warm temperate  ·  Widespread eastern and northern Australia

The Wonga Vine is a vigorous, twining vine that naturally inhabits rainforest margins and sheltered gullies across much of eastern Australia. In spring it produces a spectacular mass of small cream-to-pink tubular flowers with dark pink to purple throats. The display is all the more remarkable because it occurs even in quite deep shade.

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In the garden, the Wonga Vine is ideal for covering fences and pergolas in shaded southern-aspect positions, for scrambling up the trunks of large trees, or for providing a dense, leafy screen in a position where other climbers would simply refuse to flower. It is vigorous and long-lived, and importantly for wildlife gardeners the flowers attract honeyeaters and large butterflies. 

Managing Wonga Vine: Prune by up to one-third immediately after flowering in spring to maintain size and encourage the following year's floral display. Provide a robust support structure. In frost-prone areas, plant in a sheltered microclimate such as against a north-facing wall with overhead canopy protection.

Planting & Maintenance

Preparing the site. Success in deep shade begins with soil preparation. The most common limiting factors are compaction, dryness from tree root competition and low organic matter. Before planting, incorporate a generous layer (10–15 cm) of well-aged compost or composted leaf litter and work it into the top 20cm of soil with a sturdy garden fork.

Mulching. Mulch is non-negotiable in a shade garden. A 7–10 cm layer of coarse wood chip, pine bark or shredded native leaf litter will retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, moderate temperature and gradually enrich the soil as it breaks down. Keep mulch pulled back slightly from plant stems and trunk bases to prevent collar rot.

Watering. Even shade-tolerant plants need regular watering during their establishment period which is typically the first two summers. After that, most of the plants listed here require minimal supplemental irrigation in temperate climates, though tropical species will benefit from a thorough deep watering during extended dry spells.

Feeding. Australian natives generally have modest nutrient requirements and are sensitive to high phosphorus levels. Use a low-phosphorus, slow-release native fertiliser applied once in spring. Avoid high-nitrogen products, which promote lush but soft growth vulnerable to pest and disease damage. The best long-term feeding strategy is maintaining a healthy organic mulch layer that slowly releases nutrients as it decomposes.

Pruning and renovation. Most shade-tolerant natives are low-maintenance, but periodic upkeep makes a significant difference to their appearance and longevity. Strappy-leaved plants such as Dianella and Poa benefit from being cut back hard every two to three years. Ferns and lilies simply need old or damaged fronds removed as they appear. Climbers should be pruned after flowering to control vigour. Visit our native plant pruning guide.

Pest and disease tip: Shade gardens can be prone to slug and snail damage (particularly on ferns and soft-leaved plants) and to fungal issues if air circulation is poor and foliage is persistently wet. Control slugs and snails with iron-based baits, which are safe around wildlife and pets. Improve air movement by thinning overhead canopy where possible.

At a glance

• 01Soft Tree Fern (Dicksonia antarctica)
  Cool temperate to warm temperate
• 02Rainforest Lily (Johnsonia lupulina)
  Tropical to subtropical
• 03Native Violet (Viola hederacea)
  Cool temperate to subtropical
• 04Davidson's Plum (Davidsonia jerseyana)
  Subtropical to warm temperate
• 05Tasman Flax Lily (Dianella tasmanica)
  Cool temperate to warm temperate
• 06Climbing Lily (Tripladenia cunninghamii)
  Subtropical to tropical
• 07Forest Poa (Poa sieberiana)
  Cool temperate to subalpine
• 08Crow's Ash (Flindersia australis)
  Subtropical to tropical
• 09Necklace Fern (Asplenium flabellifolium)
  Cool temperate to subtropical
• 10Wonga Vine (Pandorea pandorana)
  Subtropical to warm temperate

Australia's shade plants represent some of the continent's most ecologically valuable species. By choosing plants matched to your climate zone and understanding the specific challenges of your shaded site, you can create a garden space that is not only beautiful but also supportive of local wildlife.

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