How to propagate Australian native plants from cuttings
Growing natives from cuttings is one of the most satisfying skills in your garden. Done well, it multiplies your plants for free preserving their exact characteristics and gives you stock to fill gaps or give away.
Propagation from cuttings is the same idea as dividing clumping native plants; getting more from what you already have but applied to shrubs that can't be split at the root ball.
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Understanding cutting types
The right type of cutting depends on the plant and the time of year. There are three main types used for Australian natives.
Soft tip cuttings
Taken from actively growing shoot tips in spring and early summer, soft tip cuttings are the quickest to root but they wilt easily and need higher humidity to succeed. They work well for correa, crowea and other plants in the Rutaceae family.
Semi-hardwood cuttings
The most commonly used type for Australian shrubs. Taken from late spring through into autumn as new spring growth begins to firm up, semi-hardwood cuttings have partially woody stems that are firm but not brittle. They are more forgiving than soft tip cuttings and require less environmental control. Grevillea, callistemon, westringia, kunzea and eremophila are all propagated this way.
Hardwood cuttings
Taken from fully mature, woody growth in autumn and winter. Slower to root but very tough. Less commonly used for the plants in this guide, though some grevillea species respond well to hardwood material taken in early autumn.
What you need
Propagating from cuttings requires very little equipment but cleanliness and sharp tools matter significantly. A cutting made with a blunt or dirty blade heals poorly and is more vulnerable to fungal infection before roots form.
You will need a dibber, sharp garden knife and secateurs wiped clean. A free-draining propagating medium is essential. A good mix for most natives is equal parts coarse sand and perlite. Rooting hormone powder or gel significantly improves success rates and is worth using for all but the easiest species.
A natural alternative to rooting hormone: Raw honey works as a natural rooting agent for easy-to-strike species. It contains enzymes that promote root development and natural antimicrobial properties that help protect the cut wound. Dissolve one tablespoon of raw honey in two cups of boiled water, allow to cool completely and dip the cutting for a few hours before inserting into the propagating mix.
The general method
This method applies to the majority of Australian native shrubs. Plant-specific notes are covered in the entries below.
- Choose your cutting material carefully. Look for healthy, non-flowering stems with firm new growth. Avoid soft, sappy growth at the very tip and avoid old, fully woody growth. The ideal semi-hardwood cutting is firm but still has some flex; it should bend rather than snap.
- Take cuttings in the morning when the plant is well hydrated. Place them in a damp cloth or plastic bag immediately to prevent wilting before you prepare them.
- Cut to 8–12cm using a clean, sharp blade, cutting just below a leaf node. Remove all leaves from the lower half of the cutting and reduce remaining leaves by a third to a half to lower water loss through the foliage.
- Remove any flower buds. A cutting that flowers will direct energy into reproduction rather than root development. Remove all buds before inserting.
- Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional) Powder, gel or honey as noted above. Make a small hole in the propagating mix with a pencil or skewer before inserting, so the hormone coating is not wiped off on the way in.
- Insert firmly into propagating mix to a depth of roughly one third of the cutting's length. Water in gently and allow to drain.
- Maintain humidity by covering with a clear plastic bag or placing in a warm sheltered position out of direct sun. Check every few days and remove any cuttings that show signs of mould or collapse.
- Be patient. Most native cuttings take four to twelve weeks to root, depending on the species and conditions. The sign of success is new leaf growth and gentle resistance when the cutting is lightly tugged. Pot on once roots are 2–3cm long.
Water propagation is sometimes used for easy-to-strike species like westringia and works reasonably well for soft tip cuttings of correa. Roots formed in water are ones best suited to a low-oxygen, high-moisture environment.
Eight Australian native plants worth propagating from cuttings
Grevillea (Grevillea spp. and cultivars)
Grevillea cultivars must be propagated from cuttings rather than seed. Take semi-hardwood cuttings of 10–15cm from the current season's growth between October and April. Use a low-nutrient propagating mix and rooting hormone is recommended. Keep the cuttings warm and humid but avoid direct sun, which will scorch the foliage before roots form. Most cultivars root readily within six to eight weeks. Note that grevillea sap is a known skin irritant, so wear gloves when taking cuttings.
Correa (Correa spp. and cultivars)
Correa propagates best from soft tip cuttings taken in late summer and early autumn, when the plant has finished its new growth. Keep cuttings short (around 75mm) and cut cleanly below a leaf node. Correa roots well in a perlite and peat mix with consistent humidity. Success rates are significantly lower in winter when growth has slowed, so autumn is the window to aim for. Cuttings should be potted on into individual containers as soon as four to seven roots are visible, as they resent disturbance once established. Chef's Cap Correa (Correa baeuerlenii) roots particularly reliably using this method.
Westringia (Westringia spp. and cultivars)
Westringia is one of the easiest Australian natives to propagate from cuttings and a good starting point for new gardeners. Semi-hardwood cuttings taken at almost any time from spring through autumn root quickly, often within four to six weeks. Select firm, healthy stems of 8–10cm, remove the lower leaves and insert into propagating mix. It responds well to rooting hormone though will often root without it. Pot on once roots are established and grow on in a sheltered position before planting out.
Boronia (Boronia spp.)
Boronia is one of the more challenging Australian natives to propagate from cuttings. It is sensitive to both overwatering and drying out, resents root disturbance and can be slow to root. Take semi-hardwood cuttings of 8–10cm in the cooler months when the plant is not in active growth. Use a very free-draining mix and keep humidity consistent. Rooting hormone is important for boronia. Patience is essential as rooting can take up to four months. Once rooted, pot on carefully and avoid disturbing the root system more than necessary.
Kunzea (Kunzea spp.)
Kunzea propagates readily from semi-hardwood cuttings taken in late spring through summer, once the spring flush has firmed. Select stems of 8–10cm, remove the lower leaves and dip in rooting hormone before inserting into a free-draining propagating mix. Kunzea roots well under a humidity cover in a warm sheltered position and generally strikes within six to eight weeks. Pot on once roots are well established and grow on in a bright sheltered position before planting out in full sun.
Callistemon / Bottlebrush (Callistemon spp. and cultivars)
Take semi-hardwood cuttings of 10–15cm in summer from healthy, non-flowering stems. Remove all but the top few leaves, reduce those leaves by half and remove any flower buds before inserting into a coarse propagating mix with rooting hormone applied. Cover with a plastic bag to maintain humidity and place in a warm position with bright indirect light. Rooting generally takes six to ten weeks. For species rather than cultivars, seed is also a reliable and straightforward method if you are not concerned about maintaining the exact parent's characteristics.
Eremophila (Eremophila spp. and cultivars)
Eremophila propagates well from semi-hardwood cuttings but requires particular attention to the propagating mix, which must be very free-draining. A coarse sandy mix with added perlite works well. Take cuttings of 8–12cm from late spring through early autumn, apply rooting hormone and insert in a warm sheltered position. Humidity is helpful but avoid sealing cuttings in a completely enclosed environment, as airflow reduces the risk of fungal problems. Once rooted, pot on into a similarly free-draining native mix and allow to establish before planting out in full sun.
Crowea (Crowea exalata and cultivars)
Crowea propagates readily from both soft tip and semi-hardwood cuttings taken from spring through to early autumn. Select healthy non-flowering stems of around 7.5–10cm, remove the lower leaves and dip in rooting hormone. Crowea roots best in a perlite and peat mix with consistent humidity maintained throughout. Place in a warm position with bright indirect light and check regularly for moisture. Rooting generally occurs within six to ten weeks. Crowea is one of the more reliable natives to propagate from cuttings. Pot on carefully once roots are visible and grow on in a sheltered position before planting out.
Potting on your cuttings: Once a cutting has rooted, pot it on into a small container and grow it on in a sheltered position for at least four to six weeks. Rushing this stage is one of the most common reasons newly propagated plants fail in the garden. A well-established root system in the pot means a much better chance of success in the ground.
Propagating from cuttings rewards patience and attention to detail more than almost any other gardening technique. The failure rate is part of the process so take more cuttings than you need and keep notes on what worked. Success almost always improves with experience. The plants you propagate yourself always feel slightly more like your own.
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A Guide to Australian Native Gardening
How to plan, plant and care for a thriving native garden, whatever your experience level.
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