Create a tropical style garden with these 18 Australian natives
Australia has a native flora that spans genuine tropical rainforest, subtropical coastal communities and warm sclerophyll woodland. These areas deliver plants with large, glossy leaves that reflect low light, architectural forms built for height competition, greens that maximise photosynthesis in shade and dramatic flowers evolved to attract specialist pollinators through a dense canopy.
This guide covers eighteen Australian natives across the four layers of a tropical planting — canopy, mid-storey, climbers and groundcover — plus native epiphytes. Some are genuinely tropical in origin and others are temperate plants with a tropical aesthetic, equally useful for the effect but suited to a wider range of gardens. For the establishment approach that applies, see our soil care guide before you start.
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What makes a garden feel tropical
The tropical look is produced by layering and density rather than by any single plant. A garden feels tropical when there is canopy overhead filtering the light, a mid-storey of bold foliage and flowering shrubs at eye level, climbers working vertically up structures and into the canopy and a lush groundcover layer that leaves no soil visible.
Key design elements that reinforce the tropical feeling:
- Large, bold or glossy leaves in the mid-storey — the more varied the leaf shape and size, the more layered and rich the planting feels
- Dense planting without gaps — bare soil immediately reads as non-tropical; groundcovers and ferns close these spaces
- Vertical elements — palms, tall tree ferns and climbers on structures add height and the upward reach that characterises rainforest environments
- Water — even a small pond or water feature amplifies the tropical feeling significantly and supports the moisture-loving plants that suit this style. See our guide to native plants for ponds and water features for options that integrate naturally into a tropical-style planting
- Shade — a tropical-style garden works best with dappled shade rather than full sun; the canopy layer creates this condition for the plants beneath it
Tropical origin vs tropical aesthetic
Throughout this guide, each plant is labelled as either genuinely tropical or subtropical in origin, or as a temperate plant with a tropical aesthetic. This distinction matters for climate matching. A plant labelled genuinely tropical will need frost protection or a warm climate to perform well. A plant labelled tropical aesthetic can be grown across a much wider range of Australian garden climates and still deliver the visual effect you are looking for.
The canopy layer
The canopy provides filtered shade, height and the overhead green enclosure that makes a garden feel like it has arrived somewhere. In smaller gardens one canopy tree is enough. In larger gardens two or three at different heights create the layered effect of a genuine rainforest margin.
1. Illawarra flame tree (Brachychiton acerifolius)
Tropical aesthetic · Temperate to subtropical
NSW · Queensland · Victoria (warm positions) · Wide temperate range
In late spring and summer, the Illawarra flame tree produces a dramatic display with scarlet-red bell-shaped flowers erupting across the entire canopy while the branches are still bare. The maple-like leaves that follow are broad, contributing to the tropical aesthetic through the growing season. It is not a genuinely tropical plant as its natural range extends through the coastal ranges and lowlands of NSW and Queensland, but few plants produce a more tropical visual impact in a temperate garden.
In cultivation, it typically reaches 8–15m over many decades, making it manageable in medium to large suburban gardens. It performs best in full sun in free-draining soil and is moderately drought-tolerant once established. Plant with a planting spade into well-drained soil and use a buried olla to support root establishment through the first two summers. Apply a generous layer of coarse native mulch to the root zone.
2. Lilly pilly (Syzygium spp.)
Tropical aesthetic · Wide temperate to subtropical range
Queensland · NSW · Victoria · SA · Wide range depending on cultivar
Lilly pillies are among the most versatile Australian natives for tropical-style gardens. One of their most distinctive features is the new growth that is vivid bronze-red to pink. Combined with glossy evergreen foliage, white fluffy flowers in summer and pink to purple berries in autumn, they deliver sustained visual interest. There are species and cultivars suited to almost every Australian climate from the large-growing Syzygium francisii for subtropical gardens to compact cultivars like 'Resilience' that function as mid-storey plants in smaller temperate gardens.
Plant in free-draining soil with adequate moisture through establishment. Lilly pillies respond well to pruning and can be shaped as a screening hedge, allowed to develop as a large shrub or trained into a small canopy tree depending on the space. Use secateurs for light shaping and a hand fork to prepare the planting hole.
3. Blueberry ash (Elaeocarpus reticulatus)
Tropical aesthetic · Temperate to subtropical
Queensland · NSW · Victoria · SA · Wide temperate range
Blueberry ash has dark leaves, masses of delicate fringed bell flowers in spring and vivid blue berries that follow. The dense canopy and glossy foliage read as tropical even though the tree is perfectly at home in cool temperate Melbourne and Sydney gardens. The blue berries are a significant food source for fruit-eating birds and persist on the tree long after most other fruiting plants have finished.
Tatiana Gerus from Brisbane, Australia, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
It performs well in a range of soil types and tolerates moderate shade, which makes it useful as a secondary canopy layer beneath a taller tree. Use a wide-pronged fork to prepare the bed before planting, then plant with a planting spade into free-draining soil and water deeply through the first summer with a hose. No fertiliser required once established.
4. Bangalow palm (Archontophoenix cunninghamiana)
Genuinely subtropical · Suited to warm temperate to tropical gardens
Queensland · NSW (coastal and ranges) · Parts of Victoria (frost-free positions)
The bangalow palm has a tall, clean trunk topped with arching fronds that is unmistakably tropical in character. Each frond that drops leaves a clean ring on the trunk that record the palm's growth (one per year). It is a genuinely subtropical plant from the rainforest margins and creek lines of coastal Queensland and NSW and it performs best in warm, frost-free or light-frost positions with reliable moisture.
Bangalow palms grow to 10–25m in ideal conditions. In garden situations growth is slower and the slender trunk takes up minimal space, but the eventual height should be considered. Plant into free-draining soil with good moisture retention, use an olla through the first two summers and mulch generously around the base. Bangalow palms resent root disturbance so use a hori-hori to open a clean planting hole.
The mid-storey layer
The mid-storey is where the tropical aesthetic is most powerfully constructed. This is the layer at eye level and just above. In a tropical-style garden the mid-storey should be dense enough that you cannot see through it to the fence or boundary beyond.
5. Walking stick palm (Linospadix monostachya)
Genuinely tropical · Suited to subtropical and warm temperate gardens
Queensland · Northern NSW · Rainforest understorey positions
The walking stick palm is the small-garden answer to the bangalow. It is a genuinely tropical Australian palm scaled for understorey positions, courtyards and the mid-storey layer beneath taller trees. It grows to just 2–3m with a slender single stem and it is one of the few palms that thrives in full shade. In its natural habitat it produces hanging spikes of small bright red fruit making it a significant food source for rainforest birds.
Steve Fitzgerald, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
It is less widely available than the bangalow palm but can be sourced from specialist native nurseries. It requires consistent moisture, good drainage and protection from frost. Plant into a sheltered, shaded position with a hori-hori and maintain a deep organic mulch layer around the base to retain moisture.
6. Native ginger (Alpinia caerulea)
Genuinely subtropical to tropical
Queensland · Northern NSW · Subtropical to tropical
Native ginger has large, lance-shaped glossy leaves on tall cane-like stems. The small white flowers in summer are followed by vivid metallic blue berries consumed by bowerbirds, cassowaries and a range of fruit-eating birds making it among the most useful mid-storey plants in a tropical wildlife garden. The leaves, when crushed, release a spicy ginger fragrance.
Martin Hannan-Jones, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
It performs best in warm, frost-free positions with consistent moisture. In temperate gardens it can be grown in a sheltered position with a heavy mulch layer for winter protection. Plant using a hand fork to open the planting area. Use a buried olla to maintain consistent root zone moisture without surface wetting that encourages fungal problems at the crown.
7. Wheel of fire (Stenocarpus sinuatus)
Genuinely subtropical to tropical · Slow-growing and manageable in cultivation
Queensland · Northern NSW · Subtropical to tropical · Warm temperate in sheltered positions
Wheel of fire earns its common name from the structure of its flowers that resemble the spokes of a burning wheel. It is one of the most geometrically distinctive flowers in the Australian flora. They appear from summer to autumn and are a significant nectar source for honeyeaters and lorikeets. The dark glossy leaves are as impressive as the flowers. In its natural rainforest habitat it grows to 30m, but in cultivation it is a slow-growing tree that typically reaches 5–8m over many years.
It performs best in subtropical and warm temperate positions in full sun to part shade with good drainage and consistent moisture. In temperate gardens it can be grown in a warm, sheltered north-facing position with frost protection when young. Plant with a planting spade into well-drained soil and use a buried olla through the first two summers.
8. Native gardenia (Atractocarpus fitzalanii)
Genuinely tropical to subtropical
Queensland · Northern NSW · Tropical to subtropical
Native gardenia delivers two distinct contributions to a tropical-style garden: large, intensely glossy leaves and white flowers in summer with a sweet fragrance that intensifies at dusk. This is a deliberate strategy to attract night-flying moths as pollinators. The orange fruit that follows is consumed by rainforest birds including figbirds and bowerbirds.
It requires frost-free conditions, reliable moisture and shelter from cold winds. Prepare the planting area with a hand fork, then plant into well-draining soil enriched with a small amount of organic matter and maintain a generous mulch layer. Position it near an outdoor seating area where its evening fragrance can be appreciated.
9. Finger lime (Microcitrus australasica)
Tropical aesthetic · Wide temperate to subtropical range
Queensland · NSW · Victoria · Wide range
Finger lime is a dense, thorny shrub or small tree with small, dark glossy leaves that is adaptable to a wide range of Australian climates. The small white flowers in spring are followed by the remarkable finger-shaped fruit — one of the most sought-after native bush foods in Australian cuisine. As a garden plant it provides structure, density and foliage year-round, with the fruit as a significant seasonal bonus. It is also a larval host plant for the orchard butterfly (Papilio aegeus).
Plant into free-draining soil using a hori-hori for precise planting with minimal soil disturbance. Wear thick gloves as the thorny stems make careful handling important. Water deeply through the first summer and apply a coarse native mulch to the root zone.
The climber and twiner layer
Climbers complete the tropical aesthetic by working vertically — covering fences, pergolas and trellises with lush foliage and dramatic flowers. A single climber on a fence can transform a flat boundary into a living, flowering wall.
10. Bower vine (Pandorea jasminoides)
Tropical aesthetic · Wide temperate to subtropical range
Queensland · NSW · Victoria · SA · Wide temperate range
Bower vine has trumpet-shaped flowers in white with a deep pink-red throat and carry a light sweet fragrance. The contrasting throat markings are a pollinator signal, guiding insects directly to the nectar. The pinnate leaves are dense, covering whatever structure the vine climbs with a thick green curtain. It is a warm temperate to subtropical plant but performs reliably in cool temperate positions in sheltered, north-facing aspects.
It twines rather than clings, so it needs a structure with something to wrap around. It grows at a moderate rate, reaching 3–5m over several seasons. Prune after the main flowering flush with secateurs to keep growth manageable. Plant into free-draining soil with a hori-hori and water deeply through the first summer.
11. Climbing guinea flower (Hibbertia scandens)
Tropical aesthetic · Wide temperate to subtropical range
Queensland · NSW · Victoria · SA · Wide temperate range
Climbing guinea flower is the most broadly adaptable Australian climber for a tropical-style garden. Its dark glossy leaves on twining stems create exactly the dense, lush coverage that makes a fence or pergola read as tropical. It is naturally found in coastal heath and dry sclerophyll communities of eastern Australia, which explains its tolerance for coastal exposure, moderate frosts and dry periods once established.
Like bower vine it twines rather than clings, so it needs wire, trellis or lattice to climb effectively. It grows vigorously once established and can cover a substantial fence within two seasons — use secateurs or loppers to keep it within bounds. Plant into free-draining soil with a hori-hori and water through the first summer. It is drought tolerant once established and requires no fertiliser.
The groundcover and understorey layer
The groundcover layer eliminates bare soil and creates the lush, continuous green carpet that completes the tropical aesthetic. Native ferns are the most effective plants for this role. The two tree ferns below reach 2–5m in height and technically span into mid-storey scale, but they are included here because their primary function is to create the shaded, textured understorey layer that makes the groundcover beneath them possible.
12. Cunjevoi (Alocasia brisbanensis)
Genuinely subtropical to tropical
Queensland · Northern NSW · Subtropical to tropical · Sheltered warm temperate positions
Cunjevoi produces enormous arrow-shaped leaves up to 1m long on thick upright stems. Each leaf tip tapers to a fine point, a specialised drip tip that channels rainfall off the leaf surface. A single established clump transforms an understorey position into something that reads unambiguously as rainforest. It grows in consistently moist soil in the dappled shade of larger trees and in temperate gardens it can be grown in a frost-protected, sheltered position with deep mulch for winter protection.
It spreads by rhizome to form large clumps over time, which increases the lush density of the planting naturally. Plant into moisture-retentive, well-draining soil in a shaded position and use a buried olla to maintain consistent root zone moisture. Note that all parts of the plant are toxic if ingested and the sap can cause skin irritation — handle with gloves and keep away from areas accessible to small children and pets.
13. Rough tree fern (Cyathea cooperi)
Genuinely subtropical · Adapts to warm temperate gardens
Queensland · NSW · Parts of Victoria · Subtropical to warm temperate
The rough tree fern's trunk is a column of fibrous root material and grows at a rate of up to 1m per year in ideal conditions, elevating an increasingly large crown of arching fronds above the surrounding planting. The fronds themselves are large, soft and bright green, creating a canopy of filtered light beneath them that suits the shade-loving plants in the groundcover layer. It is a genuinely subtropical plant but adapts well to warm temperate gardens in sheltered positions.
Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
It requires consistent moisture, good drainage and protection from strong wind. Mulch generously around the trunk base to maintain moisture and regulate temperature. See our guide to native ferns for companion fern species that suit the understorey beneath it.
14. Soft tree fern (Dicksonia antarctica)
Tropical aesthetic · Cool temperate — suits Melbourne and highland gardens
Victoria · Tasmania · SA · NSW highlands · Cool to warm temperate
Despite occurring naturally in the cool, wet mountain forests of southeastern Australia, soft tree fern produces exactly the lush, prehistoric, rainforest-canopy feeling that defines the tropical look. Its trunk grows slowly but steadily and the large fronds arch outward to create deep green shade beneath. It is one of the most frost-hardy tree ferns available and performs reliably in Melbourne and Hobart gardens where subtropical tree ferns would struggle.
Jungle Rebel from Brussels, Belgium, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The trunk should remain moist to the touch year-round. In dry periods, water the trunk directly as well as the root zone. A terracotta olla positioned beside the plant maintains consistent root zone moisture without surface waterlogging. It can be transplanted successfully as a mature specimen if the trunk is kept moist during the move.
15. Native violet (Viola hederacea)
Tropical aesthetic · Wide temperate range · Suits moist shaded positions
Queensland · NSW · Victoria · SA · Tasmania · Wide range in moist positions
Native violet is the ideal groundcover for the moist, shaded conditions that a tropical-style garden creates. It spreads by runners to form a continuous, low carpet of small rounded leaves with delicate white and purple flowers from spring through autumn. It is a host plant for several native butterfly species and a nectar source for small native bees.
Plant into moist, well-draining soil in a shaded position and allow it to spread naturally — it requires no fertiliser, no amendment and minimal maintenance once established. Use a hori-hori to divide and redistribute established clumps to fill gaps in the groundcover layer as needed. It combines particularly well with maidenhair fern for a varied, textured understorey carpet.
16. Maidenhair fern (Adiantum aethiopicum)
Tropical aesthetic · Wide temperate range · Moist shaded positions
All mainland states and Tasmania · Moist sheltered positions · Wide range
Maidenhair fern is a widely distributed native occurring in moist, sheltered positions across all mainland states and Tasmania, growing in the spray zones of waterfalls, along shaded creek banks and in the cool understorey of wet forest. In the garden it is one of the most effective plants for filling the darker, moister corners that a tropical-style garden inevitably produces beneath its canopy.
It requires consistent moisture and protection from direct sun and drying winds. Plant carefully into the groundcover layer using a narrow trowel to avoid disturbing neighbouring roots. It spreads gradually by rhizome to fill available space. See our native ferns guide for companion fern species that suit similar shaded positions throughout the garden.
Beyond the four layers: epiphytes
Epiphytes grow on trees, rocks and structures rather than in the ground. They use their host purely for anchorage and draw moisture and nutrients from rain and the air around them. In a tropical rainforest they are present at every height: on trunks, in branch forks and across the canopy.
17. Elkhorn and staghorn ferns (Platycerium bifurcatum and P. superbum)
Genuinely subtropical to tropical · Elkhorn adapts to wide temperate range
Elkhorn: Queensland · NSW · Victoria · Wide temperate range · Staghorn: Queensland · Northern NSW · Subtropical to tropical
Elkhorn (Platycerium bifurcatum) and staghorn (P. superbum) are among the most recognisable tropical plants in Australian gardens. They can be mounted onto tree trunks, fence posts or timber boards rather than planted in the ground. Both produce two distinct frond types: flat shield fronds that clasp the mounting surface and channel water toward the root mass and long, arching fertile fronds that extend outward. The shield fronds die and dry in place over time, forming a nest structure that catches leaf litter and moisture. The staghorn grows as a single large rosette while the elkhorn spreads by producing pups to form dense colonies.
Both are best mounted on a backing of coarse organic material — coconut fibre, sphagnum moss or a piece of rough timber — strapped firmly to a host tree or structure. They require no soil and no ground preparation. In dry periods, soak the root mass thoroughly rather than misting the fronds. See our guide to native ferns for companion fern species that suit similar positions.
18. Rock orchid (Dendrobium speciosum)
Tropical aesthetic · Wide temperate to subtropical range
Queensland · NSW · Victoria · Wide range on suitable host surfaces
Rock orchid is one of the few epiphytic plants that performs reliably across a broad range of Australian climates. It grows on trees and rocks rather than in soil attaching its thick, water-storing pseudobulbs to bark or stone with wiry roots. In late winter and spring it produces dense, arching spikes of flowers that can contain up to eighty individual florets each.
Mount onto a rough-barked tree such as a casuarina, angophora or mature lilly pilly, or directly onto a suitable rock surface. Position in dappled light rather than deep shade or direct sun. It requires excellent air circulation, good drainage at the root mass and a distinct dry period in late summer and autumn to initiate flowering. See our guide to native orchids for companion species and more on growing orchids in a garden setting.
Planting a tropical-style garden — where to start
The most effective approach is to establish the layers in sequence, working from the canopy down. Plant the canopy trees first and allow them to begin creating shade before introducing the mid-storey plants that prefer dappled conditions. The climbers can go in early once a structure is in place. The groundcover and fern layer should be planted last, once the canopy and mid-storey are providing enough shade to suit them.
Consistent moisture through establishment is the single most important factor for the plants on this list — tropical-style plantings perform best with reliable soil moisture at the root zone without surface waterlogging. A buried terracotta olla beside each plant delivers water directly to the root zone through the critical first two summers, after which established plants become significantly more self-sufficient. Apply a deep layer of coarse native mulch across the entire bed as this is particularly important for the moisture-sensitive plants in this guide.
For gardeners who want to take the tropical aesthetic further, a small pond or water feature positioned in the centre of the planting with native aquatic plants at the margins will amplify the tropical feeling significantly and provide habitat for frogs, dragonflies and other wildlife that complete the picture of a genuinely thriving native ecosystem. See our guide to creating a native garden for wildlife for the broader habitat picture.
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A Guide to Australian Native Gardening
How to plan, plant and care for a thriving native garden, whatever your experience level.
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