10 common garden products to avoid in an Australian native garden
Australia's local plants evolved in lean soils and in close relationship with insects, fungi and wildlife. When we introduce products designed for roses, lawns and imported shrubs, it can create instability.
For gardeners hoping to attract more native bees, butterflies and beneficial insects, these choices matter. Disruption in a single layer of the garden can weaken the whole system. Avoiding the following products helps create a native garden that functions as habitat rather than decoration and has a far better chance of becoming self-sustaining.
1. Weed mat
Weed mat or landscaping fabric is extremely popular as an unwanted plant suppressant. It is not particularly effective long term and introduces a range of other problems, including restricting water infiltration, limiting oxygen exchange and suppressing soil biology. Over time, the fabric fragments and leaves plastic residue in the soil.
What to try instead:
Instead of weed mat, apply organic mulch directly to the soil after planting. You can add a layer of cardboard first to suppress established weeds, which will eventually break down. As mulch decomposes, it builds humus and supports microbial life. Add native groundcovers to suppress weeds naturally, retain moisture and reduce exposed soil. These elements combined improve soil quality each season rather than degrading it.
2. High-phosphorus fertilisers
Standard fertilisers are not designed for Australian native plants. Excess phosphorus can damage root systems, reduce nutrient uptake and shorten plant lifespan. Rapid, forced growth may look productive at first, but it often results in weak structure and increased pest pressure. In a native or wildlife garden, that instability affects flowering and nectar production, which directly impacts pollinators.
What to try instead:
Focus on building soil quality gradually rather than forcing growth. Using a wide-pronged fork, add compost, leaf litter and organic mulch to provide slow nutrient release. If you choose to supplement, use low-phosphorus fertilisers formulated specifically for native plants. You can also make simple, low-cost inputs at home. This approach reduces the risk of plant damage and lowers ongoing input costs.
3. Dyed and black mulch
Dyed mulch is widely used in Australian landscaping for its high-contrast appearance. While the base material is timber, black mulch also absorbs and radiates more heat. In Australian summers, this can increase soil surface temperatures and place additional stress on shallow roots, soil organisms and newly established native plants.
What to try instead:
Choose undyed arborist woodchips, shredded prunings or organic mulch. These materials break down gradually and contribute matter back into the soil. It also weathers into the landscape without requiring frequent replacement to maintain colour, making it both more sustainable and more cost-effective over time.
4. Broad-spectrum insecticides
In a native or wildlife garden, the efficiency of broad-spectrum insecticides is the problem. These products do not distinguish between pest species and beneficial insects. Native bees, butterflies and predatory insects are affected alongside the target pest. Removing insects disrupts food sources for birds, reptiles and other wildlife that rely on them.
What to try instead:
Increase plant diversity and structural complexity so natural predator populations can establish. Many pest outbreaks settle once beneficial insects are present in sufficient numbers. Minor feeding is not plant failure but a normal expectation in a functioning food web.
Tools for Australian Gardeners
5. Artificial Turf
Artificial turf is often promoted as a low-maintenance alternative to lawn, however, it suffocates habitat entirely. Synthetic surfaces contribute to heat retention and offer no value to insects or soil organisms. In warmer months, artificial turf can reach significantly higher temperatures than living groundcover, increasing heat stress in surrounding planting.
What to try instead:
Replace lawn areas with low-growing native groundcovers or permeable pathways combined with planting. Living groundcovers reduce surface temperature, allow rain to soak into the soil and provide nectar, seed and shelter for wildlife. Over time, they strengthen soil structure rather than sealing it.
6. Mechanical tillers
Mechanical tillers are often used to quickly loosen soil before planting. While this can create short-term softness, repeated cultivation breaks apart fungal networks, disturbs soil layers and exposes dormant weed seed to light. In Australian conditions, particularly in dry climates, it can also accelerate moisture loss and increase erosion. In a native garden, long-term soil stability matters more than short-term ease of digging.
What to try instead:
Prepare new areas with sheet mulching or compost top-dressing rather than repeated digging. Where aeration is needed, use minimal disturbance methods such as a garden fork or hand cultivator to gently open compacted soil without turning it over. Over time, this reduces weed pressure, improves structure and lowers labour requirements.
7. Leaf blowers
Leaf litter acts as natural mulch, moderates soil temperature and provides shelter for insects and other small organisms. Many beneficial species overwinter in leaf layers or use them as habitat. Stripping garden beds of leaves reduces soil insulation and removes material that would otherwise break down and add nutrients.
What to try instead:
Use leaf blowers selectively on hard surfaces, but avoid clearing leaves from planted areas. Rake leaves gently and relocate them beneath shrubs or into garden beds. Allowing leaves to remain in garden beds lowers input costs, reduces waste and supports the very wildlife we hope to attract.
8. Lightweight plastic hand tools
Lightweight plastic hand tools are often sold as convenient starter options. In Australian soils, they rarely hold up. Many regions have compacted clay, sandy loam or dry mineral soils that set firm in summer. Plastic trowels and poorly constructed tools bend, snap or wear down quickly under that pressure.
What to try instead:
Choose tools made from tough, forged steel with durable handles and balanced weight. Look for construction that allows sharpening and long-term maintenance rather than disposal. Well-made tools last for years and perform reliably in firm ground. Fewer replacements reduce landfill waste and ongoing expense. In a native garden, tools that allow precise work with minimal disturbance support a more deliberate approach to soil care.
9. Blunt pruning tools
Blunt secateurs and poorly made pruning tools crush and tear plant tissue rather than slicing through it. For many Australian native shrubs, clean cuts are important for recovery and flowering. Crushed stems take longer to seal, increase susceptibility to disease and can reduce flowering in the following season. Good pruning directly affects plant health and habitat value.
What to try instead:
Use sharp bypass secateurs made from tough, forged steel and maintain them properly. Clean blades regularly and sharpen them as needed to ensure precise cuts. Investing in quality pruning tools reduces plant loss, lowers replacement costs and supports a garden that becomes more resilient over time.
10. Synthetic wetting agents for hydrophobic soil
Hydrophobic soil is common in Australia. Synthetic wetting agents are often marketed as a quick fix to help water penetrate repellent soil. While they can improve water infiltration temporarily, they do not address the underlying cause. Hydrophobic soil develops when organic matter is low and soil biology is reduced.
What to try instead:
Increase organic matter through compost, leaf litter and consistent mulching. Encourage soil biology by reducing disturbance and maintaining groundcover. As organic matter increases, soil structure improves and water infiltration becomes more reliable without ongoing chemical input.
A native garden needs to function somewhat independently
An Australian native garden will always require care, particularly during establishment. However, products that suppress, seal, sterilise or force rapid growth often create short-term visual control but long-term fragility. They increase dependency by interrupting natural processes that would otherwise stabilise the garden.
A native garden that aligns with natural processes often sees maintenance decrease as ecological relationships strengthen and costs reduce as external inputs become unnecessary.
When choosing products or tools, consider whether they contribute to that independence. If they support soil life, protect insects and still make sense in five years, they are likely aligned with the long-term health of your native garden.
