5 common mistakes in Australian native gardens (and the fix)
Establishing and maintaining a thriving native garden isn’t difficult, but it does require understanding how Australian plants actually grow in nature. Many of us gardeners unknowingly treat natives like traditional cottage plants — watering too often, enriching the soil too much or choosing the wrong fertiliser. These small missteps can have a big impact on plant health.
Below are the five most common mistakes Australians make with native gardens, why they happen and how to fix them with simple, practical changes. I've done all of them myself, more than once.
1. Believing Native Plants Are “Plant and Forget” (to the point of neglect)
A lot of content describes natives as low-maintenance, which is true — but only after they’ve established. The mistake is assuming they need little or no care from day one.
Why it happens
We often think “native” equals “super tough”, so new plants are left to fend for themselves through wind, heat, competing roots and inconsistent moisture.
What actually happens
Young natives have shallow root systems. Without consistent moisture and a bit of early shaping, they grow slowly, become leggy or fail to establish entirely.
Signs of this mistake
- Wilted new growth even in mild conditions
- Slow or uneven early growth
- Plants that never seem to “take off”
The simple fix
For the first 6–12 months, water consistently, mulch well and prune lightly to encourage a strong structure. After that, natives genuinely become the low-maintenance plants people expect.
2. Using Fertiliser That’s Too High in Phosphorus
This is one of the biggest killers of natives and it’s not often known.
Why it happens
Most general fertilisers — even organic ones — contain phosphorus levels too high for Australian plants. Our native species evolved in nutrient-poor soils, so many absorb phosphorus too efficiently, which leads to toxicity.
What actually happens
Excess phosphorus accumulates in the root zone, burning the roots and causing sudden yellowing or decline. Many banksias, grevilleas and hakeas are especially sensitive.
Signs of phosphorus toxicity
- Yellowing between leaf veins
- Stunted growth
- Sudden dieback despite adequate water
The fix
Use native-specific fertiliser with low P (look for “safe for natives” on the label). Opt for compost, worm castings or seaweed tonics for gentle, slow-release nutrition. Check out our post here on D.I.Y. Native Fertilisers for ways to make them at home. If your soil is already healthy, you may not need fertiliser at all.
3. Watering Natives Like Cottage Garden Plants
Watering is one of the most misunderstood parts of native gardening.
The mistake
Shallow, frequent watering. This encourages shallow roots, fungal issues and water stress.
Why natives react badly to this
Many Australian plants evolved through long, dry periods with occasional deep rain. They’re adapted to deep moisture followed by dry spells, not constant sogginess.
A real-world example
Kangaroo paw, a favourite in native gardens, regularly dies back due to rot when watered lightly every day — but thrives with deep soaking just once or twice a week.
The fix
- Water deeply and less often, especially once established.
- For young natives or pot-grown natives, consider ollas, which slowly release moisture and mimic natural deep watering.
- Always mulch, but keep mulch away from the stem to reduce rot.
4. Planting in “Perfect” Soil Instead of the Soil the Plant Expects
Many native plants are adapted to environments that would be considered “poor soil” by traditional gardening standards.
Why it happens
Gardeners assume they should improve soil with lots of compost or rich potting mixes because that’s what most plants prefer.
Why this harms natives
- Too much organic matter can hold excess water
- Rich soil encourages rapid, weak growth
- Low-phosphorus species become nutrient-stressed
- Poor drainage leads to fungal issues, especially in banksias and hakeas
A common scenario
A gardener plants a grevillea in a garden bed full of rich compost. It grows rapidly, looks lush for a few months — then collapses in summer because the soil stays too damp.
The fix
Match plants to the soil you already have. Improve drainage with sand or gravel rather than adding nutrient-heavy compost. For species that struggle in clay, build a slight mound so the crown sits above the surrounding soil.
5. Designing for Spring Colour Instead of Year-Round Structure
Native gardens look breathtaking in spring — but if the plant palette is too narrow, the garden can look flat the rest of the year.
Why it happens
We choose the “famous” natives: kangaroo paw, bottlebrush, grevillea, banksia. These are wonderful, but many peak only in certain seasons.
What it leads to
- A garden with bursts of colour but no year-round interest
- Higher water needs during summer
- Patchy, uneven-looking garden beds
The fix
Include “anchor plants” like lomandra, westringia, correa and leptospermum that provide structure all year. Mix flowering times so something is happening in each season. Think in terms of shape, contrast and leaf texture — not flowers alone.
This helps create a truly resilient native garden that performs even in harsh Australian weather.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do native plants need fertiliser?
Most grow well in poor soils. If you do fertilise, choose a low-phosphorus native-safe formula.
How often should I water native plants?
Young natives need consistent moisture for the first 6–12 months. Established plants prefer deep watering once a week (or less) depending on rainfall.
Why is my kangaroo paw dying?
Most likely overwatering or poor drainage. They prefer dry soil and deep, infrequent watering.
Can I grow natives in pots?
Yes — choose compact or dwarf varieties and use a free-draining native potting mix. Ollas work especially well for potted natives.
Do natives like mulch?
Yes, but apply mulch lightly and keep it away from stems to prevent rot.
