How to build a water-wise garden in Australia
In Australia, having a water tank in the garden is almost a given, and on our property we’ve taken it seriously — three enormous tanks plus a smaller one on the shed. But here’s the truth: even that isn’t enough sometimes. Every summer our demand still outpaces what we can store and climate change is only making it harder. Hotter summers, longer dry spells and unpredictable rain mean gardeners can struggle to rely on tanks alone. We need to think differently — building gardens that are more resilient, more efficient and more self-sufficient.
That realisation led me to explore and experiment with long-term water-saving techniques. Over time, these changes have helped my garden survive tough seasons.
Here are the practices I’ve found most effective for creating a water-wise garden that don't require complicated set up and anyone can implement.
Start with the right plants
The most obvious step in creating a water-wise garden is choosing native plants that are suited to your conditions. Native plants have evolved to cope with our harsh summers, irregular rainfall and poor soils making them far more resilient than many exotics.
By planting drought-tolerant natives, you’re setting your garden up to thrive with less water and less intervention. Species like correas, kangaroo paw and native grasses not only cope beautifully in dry conditions but also support pollinators and local wildlife.
If you’re not sure where to start, try experimenting with natives from seed. Our Native Seed Bombs are a simple, fun way to introduce a mix of water-wise plants into your garden — just scatter and let nature do the rest.
Improve your soil with compost and mulch
A good mulch reduces evaporation, keeps soil temperatures stable and suppresses weeds that compete for water. Research shows that mulching isn’t just about neat beds, it can dramatically change how much water your soil holds.
| Benefit | Potential Impact of Mulching |
|---|---|
| Evaporation reduction | Up to 70% less water lost to the air |
| Soil moisture increase | Around 18% more water held in the soil |
| Watering frequency | Potential to reduce watering by ~66% |
Not all mulches are equal when it comes to water retention. Some of the best options I've tried include:
- Straw or sugarcane mulch — breaks down over time to add organic matter, ideal for veggie beds.
- Lucerne mulch — nutrient-rich and excellent at holding moisture.
- Wood chips or bark — longer lasting, great for garden beds and natives.
- Composted leaves or grass clippings — a free option if you have them on hand.
Avoid fine mulches or pebbles — they can form a crust that actually prevents water from soaking in.
In my own garden, a thick layer of straw or sugarcane mulch in the veggie patch and bark chips around perennials and natives has noticeably reduced how often I need to water.
Water at the right time (and the right amount)
When you water your garden really matters. Early morning and late evening are best — the sun is lower, the soil is cooler and less moisture is lost to evaporation. But timing isn’t the whole story. How deeply you water is just as important.
A good rule of thumb: aim for a deep soak once or twice a week rather than a light sprinkle every day. Shallow watering only wets the surface, encouraging roots to stay near the top of the soil where they dry out quickly. Deep watering trains roots to grow downwards, making plants more resilient in dry weather.
To know if you’ve watered enough, try the finger test: push your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If it feels dry at that depth, your plants need water. If it feels cool and damp, you can wait another day before watering. Alternatively, dig a small spade-width hole beside a plant after watering — if the soil is moist 10–15 cm down, you’ve done the job.
For pots and containers, water until you see it start to drain from the base — that’s a sign the entire root zone has been reached.
Smart irrigation methods
Drip irrigation and wicking beds are excellent modern options, but one of my favourites is actually an ancient method: the olla irrigation pot.
An olla (pronounced “oy-ya”) is a simple, unglazed terracotta pot buried in the soil near your plants. You fill it with water, cover it and let nature do the rest. The porous walls slowly release moisture directly to the roots, keeping soil hydrated while reducing evaporation. It’s incredibly efficient, especially for herbs, vegetables and thirsty plants in summer.
I now use ollas in different spots in my garden, and they’ve become a quiet workhorse in my water-wise routine. They’re particularly helpful when I’m away, as they keep plants watered without constant attention.
I use these in my own beds — you can explore our terracotta olla here.
Reuse and recycle water
Not all garden water has to come from the tap. Unsalted cooking water (like leftover rice or pasta water) can be cooled and poured around plants for a gentle nutrient boost — I’ve written a full guide on this here.
Greywater from the laundry or bathroom can also be reused safely in some situations, provided you use plant-friendly detergents.
And don’t overlook the simplest win of all: the half-empty water bottles and glasses that collect around the house. Instead of tipping them out, keep a small jug by the sink and use it to top up your herb garden.
Every drop counts and with a little creativity, you can keep water circulating rather than wasted.
Building a resilient garden
Even with three large tanks, I’ve learned that water storage alone won’t always get you through an Australian summer. Building a water-wise garden is about layering simple habits — choosing the right plants, protecting your soil, watering deeply and using tools like ollas or kitchen water reuse.
Climate change is making gardening more challenging, but it’s also reminding us to be more resourceful. Every small action adds up, and together they make a garden that’s not just surviving drought, but thriving in spite of it.